Tenacious Tasmania

One hideously early morning in July we left our fair territory to explore Tasmania. I had been looking forward to it. To my Australian friends (and several of my English ones over the phone), I’ve been moaning a lot about the Australian winter. Fie, woman! I hear you say! Winter days drenched in glorious sunshine, frequently topping 15 degrees? Even the Australian Bureau of Meteorology (ubiquitously ‘BOM’ on everyone’s phone, which sounds less authoritative) recommends UV protection for an hour a day in the middle of winter. So what the feck is my problem? And what has that got to do with Tasmania?

We’ve all heard of the phenomenon ‘hygge’ that Ikea’s made a whole bloody industry out of (stick this post into a word doc – you’ll see the Danish word is so much an accepted commercial part of our language it doesn’t even come up as a spelling mistake). The Dutch have a word for it too; ‘gezellig,’ (now Microsoft doesn’t like that one) and these words evoke a very specific kind of notion to their native speakers of blankets, fires, hot chocolate, books, safety, friendship, and smiles. And before the British lament their anaemically deficient vocabulary, the English language has a word for it too: cosy.

I’ve always been fascinated untranslateables, ever since I travelled Europe, and my aunt bought a book about them called ‘In Other Words…’ (which I can’t find; which one of you bastards has it…). I can identify no Italian word that conveys the ‘cosy’ sentiment. But I bet in the rough and aggressive half French sounds of the Piedmontese dialect just south of the Alps, they got a word for it. Any country that habitually buries itself under winter’s grey blanket for a solid sixth months has this need for coziness. It contrasts necessarily to the misery of winter; you need first to battle through rain driven horizontal by 50k/h winds to reach a place of safety where you will curl with relief into a large chair, huddle a blanket over you, drink tea, read books, encourage anyone foolish enough to get up to light some candles and bring more tea, and be happy. The sort of thing where if a beam of sunlight peeps into the red-bathed warmth, you almost regret it. Go away, you think, you’re interrupting the cosy.

People who have winter in their souls wallow in it. It’s the best thing about winter. Admittedly, there are the virtuous days where silver morning frost trembles under a weak yellow sun and you tramp through the forest and see deer capering in the shadows. But then you deem yourself sufficiently exercised and thankfully head home, fully justified to sit about on your arse for the rest of the week. Winter is rest. You can’t be out and about doing things all the time, you hibernate, you don’t feel like exploring and adventuring, and you stay cozy and sit it out, spending more time with friends over pub lunches by roaring fires and congratulate yourself for having achieved even that. And of course, in the middle of it all, piercing the misery, are the winter celebrations (Christmas), where boaters give each other a log from their own store on Christmas Eve, people get together to eat and drink, you’re justified starting on the old bucks fizz at 10am, beautiful decorations cheer us up and we are cosy together while the wind shouts outside.

So how does this all work for a nation that mostly isn’t troubled by winter and even those few states that are don’t have the month-long celebration to welcome them in from the hungry teeth of frost?

Well, they mostly just screw their eyes up tight and wait for it to be over.

So I was looking forward to truly wallowing in winter in ‘deepest darkest Tassie’ as it has been described to me. I was going to dance Morris at the Huon Valley Midwinter Festival and I was going to drink and be merry.

So it rained a lot. That’s ok, gives you an excuse to retire to the pub. But the only time one transfers from cosy to bleak is when you can’t actually get out of the rain, as was rather the case here, which is not what I meant about wallowing in winter at all. The accumulated sides practised the processional dance on a dangerously slight incline behind the shed where we stashed all our stuff at the festival, and several of us took a tumble. Throughout the weekend, there was much falling over in the mud for Morris dancers but all the jigging about does keep you warm.

The festival was really beautiful. Willie Smith’s Cider began four generations ago in the Huon Valley in Tasmania by Willie Smith (whose parents had arrived here at the expense of her Majesty) when he planted the first tree in 1888. Back then, the Huon Valley exported apples all over the empire and was known as The Apple Isle (did you know that? I didn’t know that), and they got creative when markets changed (that’s free trade) and went to making organic cider. Our friends told us something about Granny Smith of this family being the woman who grew the titular apple…we could find no evidence of this on google, but the cider was delicious. I’m not a huge cider drinker, but I loved every drop. The Huon Valley itself is beautiful; sweeping tall hills, forests, mountains and eye achingly green; and the festival site was the best place to enjoy it. Morris dancers, and Morris groupies (!) were provided FREE accommodation for the duration of the festival in a nice little hotel, free buses took us to the grounds and back, and we got magical red wrist bands that meant you could drink as MUCH CIDER AS YOU WANT FOR FREE. This was a staggering boon, and, I hoped, sufficient compensation for Yates enduring a whole weekend of Morris. There were about four tented stages, a feasting tent with splendid food options from curry to fish, cosy little bars and it was all brilliantly decorated. Apples were the main adornment, and I shudder for the people who must have contracted apple-based fatigue from threading hundreds of apples onto single wires that were then hung as beautiful baubles absolutely everywhere. There were little fires around and a dirty great bonfire in the middle. It did rain and it was cold, and there was little getting out of it, but it did not dampen my revels as I capered and fucked up dance after dance (never mind – it’s only Cotswolds), glugged cider and swanned around in an apple haze. The wassailing ceremony is apparently the biggest in the world, and all 50 or so of us processed to the apple trees (4 sort of separated ceremonial little ones at the top of a slope, almost like a stage) carrying torches or eucalyptus branches and sang and shouted to welcome the spirits and scare away evil and I loved every minute of it.

Yates’ experience was, er, somewhat different. He spent much of the day shivering over a book, waiting for bands to start (there were awkwardly long gaps between acts and he even caught himself saying ‘thank goodness for the Morris really…) and the free booze didn’t warm him up as much as the dancing did me. Still. We watched a great act – Ruben Reeves, check him out – and he did a public duty of warming up 100 people in the middle of winter by getting them to do first a circle pit, then a dance off, and we rocked the hell out until the tent was filled with people stripped to their waists with the little pile of jumpers and coats that we all remember from our club days piled up in front of the stage. Awesome.

After the joys of the festival, we packed our mud sodden bells and hankies away and looked forward to a few days of holiday to really soak up the cosy. Away from tents, and closer to solid buildings that serve beverages. I had this conviction that the place we had booked on Bruny Island (beautiful place off the coast just south east of Hobart) had a log burner and I was excited to cuddle up by it. I do miss my old log burner on the boat. We went to Bonorong wildlife sanctuary, laughed at kookaburras, cuddled Kangaroos and stroked wombats and koala bears. Total win. Then we sped off to the Island of Bruny!

It seemed odd to me that after getting off the mainland to explore a small island, we then left that island to explore another, yet smaller island. I had a sort of Russian doll effect – like how many small islands do I have to visit before I find the final one? Anyway, this place is foodie heaven. They got an oyster place called ‘Get Shucked’ (or as I kept calling it in my infinite coolness, ‘what the shuck?’), they got a place really dedicated to whey….and make beer and cheese, they got a honey place, they got vineyards. I was excited. See previous post for my Australian food adventures which had eventually led me to this heady place.

Yates wasn’t as excited as me about oysters (I again refer you to his wry comments on the matter of molluscs recorded in the previous post), certainly not a whole dozen of them, but one set of the 12 was lightly battered and deep fried and what the hell’s not to like about that? I slurped down a couple with great delight, then seized another that was cooked with a little chorizo and a wonderful broth which I slung down my neck – imagine my horror when I discovered it was bloody hot, of course, wasn’t it. The plain, raw ones with lemon were me fav though. Then we hopped back in the car and wheel spun out of there down the (only) road about a k or 2 and got to the beer place where we tasted a cheese so marvellously soft it was making a run for the door, and I generously had a beer flight of 4 so driver Yates could enjoy a sip of each while I tidied the rest. I am all selfless kindness! Then we drove on to the southern half of the island which is separated from the north by a long thin and typically Australian named ‘neck.’ This was epic – sea on both sides of you, Tasmania to the north west and Fuck All till Antartica to the south east. Apparently there is a fairy penguin rookery on said neck as well (this in fact, is not true, they don’t exist) and we sat on a viewing platform as the sun set and we watched the moon rise silvery gold and full over the waves and gild them in glowing pearls and it was beautiful beautiful and I wept and we sat there for an hour and not one fucking penguin did we see. Please see above well researched fact in parenthesis. So stiff and cold with icy bums and dead legs, we tottered back to the car and headed for our little hotel.

Sadly, all the misguided conviction in the world won’t magic up a woodburner if there simply isn’t one. So wallowing in cosy winter was actually sitting in a large, soulless, breeze block draughty bar with a fire that was going out being scowled at by the two staff on duty until we got the hint and pissed off. We did not write them a good review.

But Bruny Island is ubiquitously beautiful: forested in deep green eucalyptus, edged with glorious wild and ravaged beaches that were so shallow, waves crashed up them for miles in white froth, and the gorgeous curve of Adventure bay that poured rainbows off the crests of waves fringed with foreign trees, trod by plover and fairy wrens with wallabies lurking nearby in unspoilt beauty brought home to me more than ever that I Am On The Other Side Of The World.

Then Yates made me get in the car and drive back to Hobart.

Hobart is not as beautiful as Bruny Island. It’s not as beautiful as Canberra for that matter. Not a lot of trees or parks. Certainly no cycle paths, and there is a madness of 4 lanes per narrow road. The good gentleman described it as ‘like a shitty regional English town.’ I mean no disrespect to our dear Hobartians. The harbour was splendid, there were lovely old buildings and lovely old (but still draughty) pubs with fires. We spent a hell of a long time in the Tasmania Museum and Art Gallery and I got all enraged about Aboriginal murder and dispossession (endlessly) and then we visited the Penitentiary museum and I got equally enraged about the depraved treatment and enslavement of convicts. God. I’m tired of my soap box when there is so much cruelty that continues in the world. But fucken….whipping people to death or at least until their skin rots and maggots wriggle in their very backs and they vomit at their own smell, and the Black Line where indigenous tribes were routinely wiped out…genocide and cruelty is our history in this country. And we disengage and think oh well people are all dicks and hide in the forest, but climate change is coming for those too and they’ll all burn because of the aforementioned assessment about people. Australians proud of their white heritage, that through immeasurable fortitude and endurance survived the sheer miserable cruelty inflicted upon them through the horrors of greed that turn humans into slaves must, surely must agree that greed is the enemy, greed is cruel and never, never seek to visit that on others and become the thing that is despised. Go in love my friends. Always find out first what we like about each other, before you find out things you disagree with. Because then, ah-ha, we can’t be lazy, we’re stuck, we already like each other and are forced to take a more nuanced approach to untangling and hearing each other’s stories.

After all that education about the misery of what one human can do to another and reflecting that world wars never ended it either, we had to cheer ourselves up with whiskey. Lark Distillery on the harbour front, while not having a fire, was lavishly wood panelled and had real green chesterfields so we curled up and drank whiskey and brooded on the evil of man until we were drunk enough to giggle like a pair of dickheads over other things, then Pia from Sydney’s Black Joak Morris joined us and we drank and drank and gassed away about travelling, Italians, food, Morris bitching and whatever else we could stuff into the evening.

The Tassie trip ended in the dreary rain and I have left out the caprices of MONA gallery, dinners with Morris dancers, wines on Bruny and a hundred other little things. But we’ll go back (in the summer next time) when there will be more to tell; meanwhile I will sit with tea watching clouds rampage across the sky over black mountain, huddle a blanket to me, and write!

What the Folk?

I’m sure that pun has been done before. But I have been getting my folk on over the Merrie Month of May and it has raised thoughts and questions that I’m pondering through. Thus I need to write it out and see what you think!

Easter weekend, I danced Morris at the National Folk Festival in Canberra. A five-day folk festival, and incredibly, one that was a fifteen-minute tram ride from me house and had absolutely no mud. Hard for an English girl to get her head round – surely you’re supposed to get up at the crack of dawn and spend four tense hours in the car crawling past Stonehenge on a single track road to get to a festival in time for the first set, and woe betide anyone who forgot their wellies. Mud is such a feature of British festivals that a whole couture has sprung up in designer rubber footwear. So imagine a purpose built festival ground. Not a farmer’s field that gets churned to shit and swamped in so much rubbish that whole eco systems are destroyed annually, but one with logical paths between stages; purpose-built exhibition buildings with stages in them, bars and so much seating. It was so clean!

Unlike me who was dressed in black and sweatily capering about in what they said was 24 degrees but dammit, felt like a hell of a lot more.

So what’s Morris like down under? Well.

I must first say that at the National Folk Festival, Australia mustered up a whole five sides. My Australian Morris friends correct me here – the purpose of the folk festival is to showcase regions, so they specifically invite certain sides from certain states (yeah, and make them largely pay for their own tickets); this year was Big Fella and Little Fella, so (a) side from the enormous state of Western Australia and then Surly Griffen from little ol’ Australian Capital Territory. And of course, the sides from Brisbane, Sidney and Melbourne that won’t be discouraged from any opportunity to get their jig on. So I get that…but after festivals in tiny places like Rochester, Wimborne, Oxford, Swanage with close on a hundred sides with their varied costumes, colours and pageantry, Australia’s festival lacked that immense diversity.

But it did mean everyone knew each other. They all camped together, ate together, drank together and there was a lovely, close family atmosphere. Er, here I must say honestly that it was a family atmosphere if you were in the family; coming in as an outsider to these extremely nice and friendly people was a little harder. I think I personally mistimed me drinking. That early afternoon high of bombing a couple of pints, then the evening dip after pausing. ALWAYS carry on through! But these lovely chaps had grown up together, danced together, known each other for years, and as some of them are separated by the miles of mountains and desert between Melbourne and Brisbane, at festivals they’re very preoccupied with catching up and hanging out. Of course they would be. Ya know, next time will be better.

Now Australian Morris is really into Cotswolds. Hmm. It’s never been me favourite style. And as I often take a sort of ironical approach to any earnestness in Morris dancing, pointedly glazing over when someone starts telling me about villages in Northamptonshire (about which I frankly couldn’t give two shits and it seems particularly ludicrous ten thousand miles away), and I find Cotswolds dancers take themselves very seriously. For a bunch of chaps with bells on. But my my, can the Australians dance it. Watching the likes of Bell Swagger (freakin’ great name) and Black Joak, this must have been what it was like in England in the old days! Vigorous leaping, shouts, strength, grace, my god did it make me want to join in. The old fellas in England would be trembling their bells to hanky-needing climaxes if they had seen it. It’s exactly what they’re talking about as they heavily lean their rotund bellies over my chair in pubs to tell me all about the dance form I’ve been doing for four years.

Or is it? Because these sides have women; tall, strong, beautiful Australian women who add a uniformity to the set by their height and strength and they kick and leap about on light feet better than any man I’ve ever seen in England. Most of the sides were a rough fifty-fifty split and just dispensed with all that nonsense about women not being allowed because Morris here started after Emancipation, instead of before. And it’s a much smaller crowd, so they just include everyone who has the folky interest. And because they all know each other and because they are slaves to the Cotswolds traditions (about which they know far more than me…see above note in parenthesis), they can all join in each other’s dances, which is quite lovely indeed.

So I came away from the folk festival actually wanting to learn hanky dances which was an extraordinary turn up for the books. But only so I could dance them in Australia. But to reflect on it all, there did seem to be an almost crippling self-consciousness in the clinging to the older Cotswolds traditions. I’ve always found that to be the more sanitised side of Morris; the kind that goes to church and won’t necessarily be found in the dark brandishing flaming torches (does one ever do anything else with a flaming torch?), drinking heavily and communing with some kind of more ancient, less definite thing. Where the hell was the border Morris?

I am assured that Border exists in Australia. When I attend the Huon Valley Midwinter Festival (gleeeee!!) in July, I expect there’ll be a lot more of the burning shit and creepy costumes. Border has always seemed to be the more progressive – even the name suggests it is the pushed aside, marginalised people that have had to forge a space of harmony between things. Well look, that’s my interpretation, and yes, I know about bloody Wales and protecting frontiers. Border sides mostly always have women, do more painting and costume (if it’s about disguising yourself with paint and rags so you can hide not only your face from your employer as you beg for money, why not your gender?) and there is a more pagan, earthy feel to it. It’s also the way Morris is progressing in England; you can be a catch-all for the folkies and the goths and more young people are interested in that style of dance. It’s the style (in England) of the young, and more Border sides are started up that Cotswolds.

Cut to England and I wake up on a narrowboat with the croak of an owl at four in the morning on May the first. Into the blue light in our bells, we step off and I’m drowning in the song of blackbirds and I have forgotten how beautiful they are. Driving towards the beacon at the end of the ancient Icknield way, we encounter a large deer on the lane, then arrive on Pitstone hill amid the yellow glow of a carpet of cowslips and New Moon Morris dance and sing the glowing red ball of light up. I can feel spring.

In Rochester that weekend, a hundred sides in different colours, ribbons and feathers are celebrating the May-o and diversity and colour are the sign of English Morris. Ok, not proper diversity, Morris dancers are still resoundingly white and English, but there is a huge mix of styles and colour. The immense percussive orchestra of the Witchmen boom out across the streets and you find your legs running towards the sound to see what’s going on and you are not disappointed. But my favourite discovery this year was a brand new Morris side called Hugin and Munnin – a pair of dancers and one musician who dress as crows (after the Norse myth of Odin’s ravens, Hugin and Munnin that follow him in battle and fly out around Midgard each morning to bring him news from across the worlds) and did some crazy shit with sticks and shields, and god knows what was going on with the big black bollock balloons that came out and ate people’s heads.

But this is what Morris is about for me. Two people starting up a new side in whatever tradition they fancy, bringing in whatever ancient mythology floats their respective boats, thinking about the spectacle, and incorporating a bit of heavy metal into Morris. Fuck yes dudes, fuck yes. Folk must grow and follow the folk and their culture. Otherwise it fossilises into the elite or the useless.

And Australia seems to have not got there yet. Perhaps it’s still establishing and then when it’s secure, it will move to the next phase. You know, like after the rise of capitalism, there is the inevitable rise of the workers. Yeah, just like that. There are new sides arising in Australia – I had the privilege to witness the birth of one at the Folk Festival. But it was a side of garland dances. Sigh. I can stick a garland dance even less than a hanky dance. But bloody hell, this was amazing! Imagine in May, the frothing of hawthorn over the hedgerows and young, lithe, beautiful girls gather blossoms and weave them into garlands and into their hair and dance. What could be more beautiful? Well, when done by ancient women in a grey town centre, which is the only way I’ve ever seen it done, a hell of a lot could be more beautiful. But in Canberra on that special evening, with fire circles giving light and heat, out stepped an amalgamation of young girls and men from several sides wreathed in green and silver with gold fairy lights in their hats; they danced beautifully and I thought I was on the bankside in a cowslip’s bell where the bee sucks and all the fairies of A Midsummer Night’s Dream were dancing for Titania. It was beautiful.

Australia is reviving Morris and doing it properly. But now it needs to grow. It needs the courage to start something new.  Miles Franklin found that her niche as a writer was not regurgitating the castles and grey moors of Europe. It was ‘off her own hook,’ by making something new, embracing her landscape. So Australian Morris; that is your next step.

Sensitivity Scorned

A light is a sign. It should be watched, listened to. Don’t hide it under a bushel.

Throughout our times, and those before, we have been given many signs. A leveret killed by a fox and its corpse smeared along the path. The way crows gather in huge black clouds. Owls hawking eagles. All these auspices we read in the sky and earth. We have learned to look for these signs, to watch the colour of sunset and the movement – skittish – of early blackbirds. To count the families of magpies and interpret them. We know how long to season oak, harden beech, mix nettle and primrose to heal our people. Some say we look into the seeds of time to see which will grow and which will not. Well, we are the sign readers. You ignore us at your peril.

With this meticulous looking and listening, I learned to love every contoured, coloured space of my country.

When I was a young girl, my mother taught me how to read the signs. The first spring we sat together under the ash; the air was sweet and soft as cowslips and Queen Anne’s lace made us a bright cushion. She taught me the repeated call of the song thrush and to learn the difference in its numbered refrains. She showed me the badger sets – to read their moods from their discarded hairs, and to hear of things to come in their snuffling; and in the call of owls, the movement of bats; the way moonlight falls in the secret places of deer.

One day, when I was a young woman, I plaited blossom in my hair and danced between the apple trees to wed a sweet boy. That night, before we bed, I slipped out in the full moonlight and buried a hard, dry pea in the earth where two paths crossed. I sprinkled spring water over it, whispered; and listened. A stillness. Then three screams of the owl. The earth rose gently and shifted, and a shoot broke through. Satisfied, I went back to my lavender scattered linen and my sweet Hrafn. I was pregnant by the end of the week.

A time I had with that first carrying, as summer passed and winter thickened. I read omens in my aching breasts and sickness. My hair grew thick and long while the pain in my swelling hips interrupted my sleep. The baby growing in me never seemed still. It writhed before rain when I read the skies to see the rain coming, it flopped over before high winds. One night, I awoke to a painless dampness; blood streaked the sheets, and I roused my husband with shrieking afraid we had lost our child. There had been no signs. My mother was sent for and we three cleaned the linen and washed me amid our tears. Two hours later, I felt it move again, a vigorous kicking. But our relief was broken when the neighbours thundered at the door, screaming that a fire had broken out in the dry lightning storm and the barn was aflame. In the last two hours it had taken hold and the village lost four new born calves. Hrafn ran off to help save the rest while my mother and I looked at each other in the fire’s distant red glow. We read the sign; clear as morning.

That this child would not need to learn how to read them.

 * * * *

When my daughter was born, she slithered into the world with her eyes wide open. Her left eye wandered outwards, unfocused. The right was sharp and piercing; it fixed me with her first look as I took her to the breast. We named her Arndis and my mother mopped the child’s skin with fennel and cinnamon water and blessed her with ashes. All the while, that unfocused left eye stayed open and rolled. I watched it that night, the second day, and the third. It never focused. But after watching and reading, I knew; I could see it; I knew that eye could see beyond the signs I could ever read.

* * * *

When she is five, I take my daughter to the flower meadow. I teach her the names of flowers, which tree bark heals, the mood of the weather in a bird’s cry. I teach her in the May morning to read the signs and she forgets nothing. She looks off into the distance and her wandering eye, blank behind the black pupil stares away left.

‘Mother,’ she beams at me. ‘Harvest will be rich this year.’

I smile at her childish tones. But I’m proud.

‘You read the signs well, little bird.’

But now she fixes me a serious look and her left eye droops more. I am suffocated by a sudden heavy gloom.

‘Store it mother,’ she pleads. ‘And next harvest, and the one after that, and the next. Eke it out. Plait more straw for trading when it runs low.’

‘What, child?’ I whisper.

‘Famine mother,’ she answers. ‘In four years.’ And she lays her light curled head on my lap and weeps.

This I could not read. But she could see it.

* * * *

Arndis turned nine with the last of the lambing. And she was right. That summer was cold and damp, the valley crops were water-logged and most failed. Harvest time came, and despite our season’s customs to bless the land and call for plenty, we had little fresh gathered at the thanking festival. Yet we were thankful. Our people have long trusted their sign readers, and when I had called for prudence with our surplus, it had been stored and extra planted in the good years. We would survive. My child was hailed as our greatest sign reader yet and those who came out of the forest and down from the foothills in need gave her thanks. We fed them, cared for them in sickness, and weathered the famine through the hunger months, until the first shoots of spring cabbage swelled for picking. In May, we drank our ale, gorged our bellies full for the first time in months and crowned Arndis as the May queen with flowers. We danced amid the apple blossom to give thanks in the warm sun that Beltane: famine was over at last.

* * * *

My child grew and we watched her with love and fascination. We had no more children, but my sisters did, and my daughter led her little cousins by the hand to the ash tree in the wildflowered meadow to teach them how to read the signs. She knew her gift, but kept her instructions temperate and careful. All our people in the valley and the hills and woods loved her; our sacred light.

One morning, when she was fourteen, she awoke me early with her face creased in pain. As I rose to comfort her, I saw the skin beneath her ribs flushed blue with bruising that flowered there. I held her shaking shoulders as she cried in the grey dawn light.

‘What happened, my dove?’

‘There is something in the bed, mother, that hurts me. Like fingers piercing me, bone-like, evil; I’ve not slept all night but rolled on bones.’

Of course we searched the bed. We pulled the blankets off to inspect the sheet. Finding nothing, we lifted the mattress, the bed itself. Still bewildered, I begged her to lie upon the bed again to try and show us where it dug the most; and her cries of pain were the wails of a lost child and it broke my heart so that I ripped the mattress to shreds for hurting her. Despairing, in a pile of feathers and straw we sat staring at the floor wondering what could have broken so violently the sleep of my child.

‘Mother, that crack on the ground,’ Arndis started to her feet. ‘It was never there before. When I kept my corn dolls under the bed for sweet dreams, it was never there before.’

I dug with my hands. I followed the crease, digging through the earthen floor. I called to my husband for the spade, we dug together an appalling hole in the floor of the room while Arndis leaned over, scooping earth away and pleading that we persevere, it was near, nearer, close now.

Two and a half metres down, my daughter triumphantly pulled out a shrivelled, mouldering pea.

‘It wasn’t that?’ Hrafn exclaimed in surprise. She looked at him, tears in her eyes.

‘Damn you, look at her back!’ I roared at him. ‘It did that! It’s a sign!’

Our child kneeled back on her heels, staring at the pea in her nightgown lap.

‘What do you see, love?’ Hrafn asked. She looked up at us again, frightened.

‘Call everyone,’ she murmured. ‘Everyone. It is a sign, and we can’t prevent this on our own.’

We called our people together in the long barn we used daily in winter with its central fire and ale store. I had seen my people dance at Thanking Festival in this hall, and on Wassail, and the Solstice tree clash in the flickering gold of the fire, vibrating the ceiling beams with their songs. This morning was tense. The elderly settled nearest the fire, folding their grandchildren in their laps and others squeezed around them knocking snow off their boots from their journeys down from the hill homes in a sombre hush. We sign readers stood at the front, my daughter ahead. My mother, her silver hair a cloak down her back, spoke first.

‘You know the power of my grandchild.’ She paused to look at the stern faces ahead that twitched in nods. ‘She has proven it in her birth, her visions and her warnings. She has kept us safe, ensured our prosperity.’ Murmurs of assent through the fire smoke. ‘She warns us now.’ Here she turned to my daughter. ‘Speak child. Tell them.’

Arndis stood forward. From behind I could only see her long hair, darkened to a light brown from its childish gold. Her shoulders were thin; she was always a small girl. But her back which faced me was firm, her voice when she spoke, though low, never wavered and I bit my lip to crush the emotion threatening to dismay me as I looked at her. My child. So young still, and holding the thick weight of our future in her thin arms that should hold the flowers and herbs I want to scatter over her beautiful head in blessing.

‘There will be pestilence,’ she said. ‘It is even now festering in the ground, coursing under the rabbit warrens of our land and souring the soil. Crops will die, but this is not like our last famine. It will cause disease in our people, poison our rivers and streams and all, from the smallest field poppy to the greatest boar in the forest, all will die.’

I watched the faces of our people as the cold, bony fingers of fear clutched their hearts and stopped their breathing. Silence followed.

‘Can it be stopped?’ a man called from the crowd.

Arndis sought him with her eyes. ‘Yes. It is the war our King is fighting on his further borderlands. The dead, the starvation and the rot have infected those lands deep beneath the fields. The blood of injustice corrupts it all. It is spreading fast. If I can gain an interview with him and put forth my application for peace, we could arrest the chaos and pour balm on the land; heal it.’

My mother twisted to her granddaughter, her steel hair falling over her shoulder. Her voice hissed. ‘You will make this journey?’

‘It’s my duty, grandmother. I must.’

I did not see how my mother swallowed hard, her eyes wild and her hands before her face. I saw nothing but my own child’s head as I screamed my protests and clutched those thin shoulders tight to me.

* * * *

I watched my daughter climb into her saddle. She had to jump a little to make the distance to the stirrup because she is still so young, and she scrambled and shuffled awkwardly, and I cried then for how will she convince a king if she can barely reach her own reins? I pinned mistletoe to her reins for luck, and seeing her cloak was fastened, I stood back, to let her urge the horse on. My husband urged his on after, his face grim but his heart soothed to go with his daughter. My own heart was cracking. I saw the fear through her brave smile and I could not speak, but squeezed her calf muscle as she moved off. A five-day journey across the mountain pass and down the planes through the late winter snow.

I was restless all week. I read the winds, the way the wolves came closer at night, clung with famine. I watched twelve crows descend in a ring and squawk, fighting over a dead vole. Another snow fall mixed with the mud stained melt and the paths between our village homes became a stiff quagmire to snap an ankle on. A grey fog descended, hiding the valley, hiding the peaks and the trees and hung there for three days. The wolves howled through. None of these signs were auspicious. The week stretched into another and a third, then one morning as I went to the wood pile, two magpies bickered on the nearest branch of the willow row. The sky had cleared and I knew my daughter was coming home.

Two more days I waited at the meadow edge to look out for her. At last, as the sun turned the late afternoon sky purple and gold I saw two figures on horseback. Hitching my skirts under my arm like a wash bundle, I raced through the muddy snow towards them.

* * * *

It had not gone well. By the fire, with my mother, my pale daughter told us of her petition. How the king had laughed and put my husband in chains, and forced him to watch the derision of his child. How the duke had demanded she prove her power, and took her to a room with seven beds, each piled with twenty mattresses, and bade her lay down on each one to find the old pea placed under one of them. How the prince had leered as she lay, stony faced on each bed. Here she paused. We winced. Hrafn continued that they were lucky they were not whipped for the king takes not his foreign policy from peasants, and they were sent away. We stared into the fire silently. We passed the hot ale around.

‘What now?’ I asked.

‘Blessings,’ my mother suggested. I looked at my daughter as she nodded slowly, her eyes fixed on the fire.

‘Be frugal with what we take from the land,’ she said. ‘Give back a morsel of all we take. Then when we have nothing, we’ll have a fat stag at the door. Be vigilant with our rivers, let not our waste escape in so our fish are killed. Keep clean. And dance and sing because we’ll need our spirits. We must love our land and each other to balance the hate of the king.’

* * * *

We watched the deer that rutting. We left offerings. We blessed the spring when it came, cautiously, and saw the birth of our lambs, of fallow deer, of pheasants. We lived carefully, with a new look between each other, of a shared unspoken thing.

And then winter. I watched the sun swell the thick, blood red of the Ragnarok stories, the poisoned red light that drives men mad. We drew in our breath, tensed. The earth was the steel death of winter and it dragged on past Imbolc and on towards Beltane, still with the low blood sun over short days. We continued our offerings. We tended the few weak lambs that crept, mewling, into life. There was only brown dead grass for them to eat in this eternal winter where the green fingers of spring had failed to stretch out from underground. Would we just die with our land? And then the falcons began circling high above the mountain and I read the horses beneath on the mountain pass. They showed me the death might be a different kind as the king’s soldiers approached our village.

Disease had spread in the city and Famine clawed at the keep’s walls. The prince had died. The king had realised the power of my daughter and in his anger and shame, he called us witches who had cursed his kingdom. He had ordered our capture and the soldiers had come for us.

The sign readers stepped forward. We were bound in chains and thrust into the cart that would bear us away. The light was hidden from our people.

* * * *

A light is a sign. Arndis made a light. The hardest thing for me was to trust what she saw; trust what I had never seen. Our arrival to the keep was a humiliation we had never known. The city’s populace, scabbed with festering sores, stained black and red with plague had turned out to jeer at the witches. They threw what rotten vegetables were left in that starving place into my mother’s face and I cringed to see her strong back sag, her silver hair smeared with filth. Hate is a weapon and they hated us. And watching them mock my child, and cow my proud mother, I hated them too. But Arndis leaned forward, trying to clasp hands of the mob and press remedies in their fists. We have healed plague in our home, and as they threw cabbages and shit, the shit of their animals at her, she still spoke calmly: yarrow infusion for the fever and vomiting; garlic and wild thyme against infection. Even chained to a dungeon pillar later, I felt relief that we were shielded from the vicious hate that had been whipped up in these people.

We waited there three days. My mother and we three daughters watched the star and moon patterns through the small grating that served for a window and tried to balance the good and evil we saw there. But Arndis looked at nothing, only leaned back against her pillar and idly fondled the fetters. Then on the third evening, we were visited by the Duke. When he swept into the room, I watched my daughter flinch and shrink back into the shadows. The Duke of the bedchamber and one hundred and forty mattresses to lay my child upon. My mother and sisters and I stepped forwards, our shoulders a wide wall in front of Arndis as he leered.

My mother lifted her chin. ‘Well?’

‘You will be executed at dawn,’ the duke said, an ugly scorn cutting his nose and mouth.

‘So now you have a notion of the importance of symbols and offerings?’ my mother laughed bitterly.

The duke leaned in to her, his face close enough for me to spit at. ‘You will be burned,’ he smiled. ‘That should cleanse the evil.’

‘And the war?’ asked one of my sisters. ‘If that continues, burning us will not make a difference.’

‘It will comfort the city and the king to watch you writhe and die,’ the duke snapped, turning to her. We stood in our walled line, our faces stone, staring forwards with our chins up and our shoulders touching. We must not break. My mother inclined her head slightly in assent.

‘Good luck with it,’ I said. ‘You know as well as we, that we are all lost. Our deaths will be more painless than yours.’ I felt my daughter move behind me, my child of sixteen with a life stolen from her and my rage flickered and flamed. And in my rage, I read what I saw, and the vision was comforting. ‘You will suffer a death of fire, sir,’ I cursed. ‘It will consume you as you stand and catch your hair and your fine robe so you will be a living pillar of flame. Your skin will crisp and crackle like a Yule hog and your last moments will be anguish and horror. You will fall to your skinless knees and beg for water to quench it, but your voice will be lost in choking smoke, and all will flee from you. I curse you, sir.’

He hit me then. But we were a stone wall and I did not even reel back but was motionless standing masonry. Blood came from my eyebrow and I smiled. He looked at us in confusion and mounting horror while he nursed his useless fist, then swept from the room.

That night, we slept little. I held Arndis to me as my mother clutched her daughters round her. We sang to spur our defiance and watched the moon, swollen and silver. We wrung love from the last hours together and tried to rejoice through our strained wakefulness, that we were together at least. Three generations of sign readers. A pattern. A sign in itself.

And then the last sign came. Just as night was almost at odds with morning, a noise from the window roused us. A magpie had landed there and strutted back and forth in its tailored waistcoat and frock coat. We watched it, a comforting life in monochrome. Then it was joined by another. Then another and another. We read aghast, the swelling visitation until the seventh arrived. It held a piece of sweet-pea in its beak – the pink and purple of late June. We stared at each other. Arndis spoke.

‘Can’t you see it now mother, when it is so near?’

I looked at her. Those thin shoulders, her long hair; her heart that loved so blithely. My heart broke again. I saw her, our light, and I saw now what the signs said. My mother saw it, and my sisters and my nieces as we stared, dismayed at Arndis, with the eye that never met ours, but saw further.

‘When I shout run,’ she whispered, ‘do not hesitate.’

* * * *

The rest is a series of dark pictures. We were pulled out at dawn; subjected to more jeering. We cried now and the king and duke laughed, thinking to have broken our spirits at last. But the cramping, biting, wrenching loss was not for our own lives, but my child’s, who knew, all along, what her fate was.

We were bound to stakes and hefted onto pyres. The man in the black mask with his burning brand stood by, waiting. My breath caught and my heart fluttered like a wren and the damp on my hands and under my arms made my bonds slip. The king was speaking but I heard nothing through the black wall of noise, the black buzz of ‘witches!’ and cheering as the executioner held up his brand and walked towards my child. Only a child. And such fear of a child. She twisted her head towards me and smiled, the most beatific smile I’d ever seen her beam. It was serene, it was joyful, and it smeared through my tears into something misty and permanent. I could see her mouth the words ‘now, mother!’ like a triumphant shout, as if she was starting a race, and the pyre was lit and the faggots caught and a light, a white shimmering light erupted; burst like a waterfall and fanned out in a summer heat we had not felt for ten months.

Our bonds singed first, and we slipped into the kindling. We waded through it, and gathering wrists of sister, mother and child and ran through the crowd, ran through the gates as soldiers bolted past us to bring pails to the explosion. We ran out of that cursed place as it was engulfed in the flaming inferno of my child; burning duke, king and pauper; melting metal, boiling lead, scorching septic earth and slaughtering the pestilence, war and corruption that infected the land.

A light is a sign. Her light could not be hidden.

* * * *

In lands far from ours, a burning cleanses. It opens space for light, it nurtures the soil; enriches it. The trees grow stronger and the regrowth is thicker; birds return. My daughter’s fire did this for our land. We made the journey back through forest and mountain pass, filled half with joy and half with despair, while the iridescent blue of kingfishers darted past us in forest streams and magpies called to each other. As we reached the willows at the edge of our home, we saw the purple and gold of crocuses had broken through the earth. Spring had come. Our land lived again.

* * * *

I am much older now, but I am a great favourite with my sisters’ grandchildren. My hair is a steel cloak down my back and my husband’s is a long white cape. I keep a small shrivelled pea on my hearth to show these babies and tell them about our greatest sign reader, as I teach them to read the meaning of magpies, what will come from the colour of sunsets and how to make a decoction from oak bark. And the light is returned to our people.

Wassail

Gathering time. Bless the year time. Shiver together to remember we’re still alive and console ourselves against the snow. Fight time. You can’t have one without the other. We fight against winter to bless the trees and the year turning so heat comes back to us.

This year it is my turn to Give. I dance the wassail every year in the dark amid the fires with the others, but this year is different. We drew lots, so it is my turn to give blood. I am afraid, but I saw Stefan give last year; a boy who lives nearer the forest and it was mother the year before. It is right that I give. The big orchard is tended by us. And it will be Hazel’s turn one day too, and I will show her how.

She watches me as I tie plaits and ribbons in my hair. She has brought me apple twig, leafless in midwinter and she has pinned it to my belt. She helps me with my decorations of ribbons, bells and feathers. She has begun dancing too and I sit her on the low stool now by the hearth to braid her hair and fix the pheasant feathers in. We must dress and disguise ourselves. I have explained this to Hazel on our long walks across fallow fields in a grey and brown country to collect feathers and berries. We must wear the pheasant and kite feather so the birds bless us. We protect them too, with our wassail, to bring back the sun and give them food with our trees. We must wear some of the rowan, the blackthorn and snowberry to symbolise eternal life, how even in death, earth sustains its creatures. She nods gravely and picks the berries from the hedgerows and we bring them home together, dry them hung up over the hearth and decorate them with ribbons.

As we sit together by the fire during Yule, tying ribbons and eating toasted walnuts I tell her about the importance of ribbons. The bright colours awaken the spring spirits, fill their minds with colour so they remember what they must do when the sun brings longer days, so they can turn the world back to its purples, yellows, reds and greens. I tell her why we must wassail our trees, to drive out the demons from the roots, and terrify her sleep with stories of rotten apples and starvation. I make her squeal with tales of evil spirits that lie resting in the white flesh of a russet or cox and when it is bitten, fly into the minds of little girls and turn them blind and steal their minds. She shrieks and giggles but she knows these things are true and half knows the horror and disaster that comes when the dancers do not gather for the wassail.

I am feathered, furred and skirted. I am ribboned red for Braeburn and Hazel is Egremont green. I hand her the sticks for clashing. Our father is heating the ale at the stove, spiced and appled, and smiles at us. I know he is proud that we carry on these ways. That we dance to save our apples and we will tend them all our lives as will our children and theirs. He is proud that his daughter will give tonight, and when I drew my lot, I did not flinch, or look at him, but clenched my fist and nodded. I knew he watched. He hands us a cup of ale each, to warm us through before our journey tonight. Mother is outside, lighting the sticks and lanterns. Her ribbons are pippin yellow red and father’s are the brown of russets. I will lead them through the village to collect the dancers, then begins our trail round the acres of our homes in the ice wind we call Njordr to bless the trees of all our people. Then I will give my sacrifice and we will sing and dance and drink to scare the devils, wake the spirits and make the giving take.

I give the first shout and step out, banging willow, and my namesake ash. My bells clang in the stillness of the frosty night, as if crystals of frost could have voice and fall against each other. I take the firebrand from my mother. I am ready.

We begin our loop of the village. I lead this year, begin the song to sing each house that beckons them each out of doors. We stand before the black face of a cottage and shout, bang our ash and willow and demand them out. Then the eyes of the house blink open as my fellow youth who have been waiting ready, come out and join the song. They raise their willow and light it from mine. They hand us ale to sip, as is custom, then we all go on together, building the noise and flames into flickering towers piled up in the black sky. Cold night. Beautiful. But unfeeling and unloving, so we must put our warmth in.

We reach the highest point of the orchard. The trees’ bare fingers clutch at the wind and all is jumping shadows with our flames. We start here. First we sing, then my blood and hair are mixed with the ale and we all drink, then we sprinkle it on the roots of the trees here, and all the trees of our home. It is more than ritual. It is arduous, methodical, thorough and long. I sing my last song as one who is separate from these trees, then I will become part of them, mixed in forever, immortal in them, like all of us here.

Stefan steps forward. As giver last year, he must take this year. He hands me the knife, a mistletoe handle, carved with an apple. First one of my thin ribboned braids is severed from the feather mixed masses and dropped in the cup. My breath quickens now, shallow. I can feel Hazel shaking behind me and see the faces of my parents set and harden. Stefan takes the knife back. I pull my sleeve away from my left arm. He does the same. I see the scar on his arm yet his ordeal is still not over as he must hold my arm still, be deaf to my cry and spill my blood.

I am afraid now.

But I am afraid of more than pain. I am afraid that if I do not give, the blackbird I have not heard sing for dark months will not come back, nor the swallow; the sun that smiles on bare arms and an eased body soothed from shivering will remain forever hunched and covered. I am afraid the evil will come back into the world, as it did before, as we have all been told since we could speak, and before, and that Hazel will run out and stop the giving in her childish fear and in the end we will all die of the evil.

My mother told me these tales on winter nights as she dressed me in my first ribbons and I asked why I had to go out into the cold. I was appeased with the fun of shouting and singing and hot ale and dancing with the village. But I asked again when I was older. I tell Hazel now as the sun goes blood red and fat and the nights stretch eternally over us.

That years ago, men came. They built a stone building that was cold and cut us off from our fields and trees. They tried to make us go in and speak to a brutal statue of a dead bloody man, instead of to the spirits and the trees and air. They told us to stop dancing and singing but speak to their statue.

Some did.

The wassailing was left off. Then the canker crept into the trees. A little boy, fed an apple for his midday meal, cut in little pieces by his father while bringing the corn in, died. We saw the trees were bleeding. A red sap leaked out of them and their leaves withered, and the big orchard had to be felled to stop it spreading. After that orchardist hanged himself off one of his own trees, we cut him down, mixed his blood with the earth and danced the wassail. Mournfully; to wail our sadness as many of us had died and summer had not come. Then the beat of our drums and sticks warmed us, and we took heart, and we struck the stone building down and used its stones to make a new circle to the winter sun. And we danced the wassail every year until the apples came back, and the sun warmed us again and now every year on this night, the blood of a willing giver is mixed in with the roots so we never lose another drop unwillingly.

I look at Hazel hard. She takes a deep breath and screws her eyes up. While I stare at her light brown hair in the curling red of the fire, Stefan seizes my arm and slices clean. I cry out but clench the fist which he holds over the three handled wassail cup. I hold a handle of it and my blood drips quickly in. My tears fall silently, but I can’t stop my shoulders from shaking and I feel dizzy. Stefan looks from the cup to me and sees me swaying then looks frantically at my mother who nods.

It is enough.

I hold the cup to me and he raises up my bleeding arm and swiftly bandages it tight. I hold it up in the air while he kisses my forehead roughly, then with his arm high about my shoulder and neck he cheers and we all cheer, and I drink the ale and my blood. He sips next, then I pass the cup to Hazel, who drinks, then passes it round her people. We sprinkle bloody ale on the tree roots systematically, then warm ourselves with a song and a stamp and dance to our drums. I cry-sing and Stefan keeps hold of my waist until I am strong again. My mother kisses me and then father leads the dance away through the trees again, brandishing the smoky, eye-watering torches to banish the demons as his ribbons flail out behind him, and our passage round the village’s trees begins again until every apple tree has been blessed and exorcised.

We danced long into the night at the ale house. The fires burned all night, we drank and we sang. I spun Hazel round until our red and green skirts merged to an Elstar apple blur. She is growing strong and brave and has learnt all the medicinal uses for Pendragons this year. And Stefan and I stood outside when the wind dropped under the naked arms of our trees and felt blessed to be part of them.